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Starting a retinol or continuing
your retinol journey
can be a bumpy process, literally and figuratively. Although retinol is widely recognized as a gold-standard ingredient in topical skin care, as it can help reduce fine lines, clear acne, and visibly brighten skin, among other benefits, this potent vitamin A derivative can come with a learning curve. As anyone who’s used one will tell you, it’s pretty common to experience redness, flakiness, and irritation as your skin adjusts.
Retinol also has a reputation for making skin more reactive to the sun, but is this true or just a rumor? Can you safely use retinol in the summer, or should you press pause on your routine while you’re hopping from the patio to the beach in June, July, and August? Ahead, dermatologists explain why your skin may feel more sensitive in the summer when you’re using a retinol—and how to safely continue your regimen even on those bright, sunny days.
Meet the experts:
Anetta Reszko
, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist in New York City.
Deborah R. Spey
, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist at Schweiger Dermatology Group in Livingston, New Jersey.
Dendy Engelman
, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist in New York City.
In this story:
What is retinol?
Does retinol make skin more sensitive?
Reducing summertime retinol sensitivity
Retinol tips for newbies
Is it really safe to use retinol in summer?
What is retinol?
Retinol is a form of vitamin A and one of several types of retinoids. It stimulates cell turnover and collagen production, and is a bit of a Swiss Army Knife, helping with various skin concerns from diminishing the signs of aging and sun damage, to improving texture and acne.
If you’re confused about retinol, retinoids, retinoic acid, and the rest of the crew, that’s totally OK! It
is
confusing because “retinol” is often used as a catch-all term for the entire category, though that is not always accurate. Retinol—which is what we’re focusing on here—is the most commonly used ingredient of the bunch, and it’s what you’ll find in over-the-counter skin care products sold at drugstores, department stores, or specialty beauty stores like Sephora or Ulta. Retinoic acid, also known as tretinoin, is the more potent form of vitamin A you get via a prescription, and retinoids refer to the entire category of vitamin A derivatives.
Again, to reiterate: Retinoids are the vitamin A family, retinoic acid is the prescription-only heavy hitter, and retinol is the most popular ingredient that you can purchase at your favorite store.
Does retinol make skin more sensitive?
Retinol works by accelerating cell turnover which means retinol can temporarily affect the outermost layer of dead skin cells, says
Anetta Reszko
, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City. Many people notice that their skin seems more sensitive when starting a retinol because that top layer has been stripped away, leaving the fresh, vulnerable “new” skin exposed.
Deborah R. Spey
, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at Schweiger Dermatology Group in Livingston, New Jersey, adds that while retinoids like retinol and tretinoin do not
cause
photosensitivity, they
do
make skin more sensitive to the sun. (Photosensitivity is a specific type of reaction to the sun, which often causes intense symptoms, like blisters or a rash.) This is because all retinoids, including retinol, “thin the stratum corneum, the protective layer of skin, and can make the skin more vulnerable to sunburn,” Dr. Spey explains. In addition, she adds, retinoids can “decrease cell-to-cell adhesion, making the burned skin more likely to blister.” There’s yet another reason to be diligent with your daily SPF.
It’s also important to note that the sun isn’t the only thing that can stress out your skin during summertime retinol use. The warmer temperatures can worsen the side effects. “High temperatures can dilate blood vessels and contribute to inflammation,” says
Dendy Engelman
, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City. That, in turn, may worsen redness and cause additional dryness or irritation.
How to reduce summertime retinol sensitivity
Do you need to stop using retinol entirely during the sunny season? Not necessarily. It’s all about how you care for your skin and protect it from damaging UV rays. In fact, Dr. Reszko says, “summer is a vital time to continue retinol use, as [it helps] address and prevent signs of cumulative and actively occurring sun damage, but the key is pairing retinol with diligent photoprotection.”
Derms unanimously agree that
sunscreen
is absolutely essential for anyone using retinol (and everyone else, for that matter—every single day). “Retinol in the summertime should be closely paired with diligent and strict sun protection,” says Dr. Reszko, who recommends applying broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher—ideally SPF 50—and reapplying every two hours when you’re outside. In addition, protect your skin with a big sun hat
Book Your Appointment
Ready to transform your skin? Visit Candy Beauty Skin Care at 32 Pell St, Chinatown, NYC.
Call (646) 691-8273 or book online at candybeauty.store.
Our expert estheticians are ready to create your personalized treatment plan.
Source: https://www.allure.com/story/can-you-use-retinol-in-summer
